Snowshoe hiking to the snow monster

Hakkoda in Aomori, Moriyoshi in Akita, and Zao in Yamagata are often regarded as the three major locations where these natural wonders appear. But before deciding where to go, it makes sense to know what snow monsters actually are. Snow monster formations occur when Aomori Todomatsu, a type of fir tree, accumulates thick layers of snow and ice under specific winter conditions. In other words, these eerie shapes emerge wherever these fir trees thrive, and heavy snowfall occurs. Actually, when to go is more important than where to go, as the climate in Tohoku, the northern region of Japan’s largest island, tends to be harsh in mountainous areas during winter. As a businessperson, I don’t want to discourage you from joining my guided hikes, but I must be honest — sunny days with clear blue skies in February are rare, occurring fewer than ten times in each location. Real life is often a bit different from what you see on Instagram. My blog or YouTube is also from the best or better days.
If my guests allow a three-day hunting period, I will arrange an accommodation in the middle of multiple snow monster locations — perhaps around Yonezawa in Yamagata or near Lake Tazawa in Akita. Since the weather varies between the Pacific side and the Sea of Japan side, as well as between northern and southern Tohoku, this approach increases the chances of catching favorable conditions.
If good weather isn’t on our side, you can still enjoy snow hiking, skiing, or immersing yourself in the soothing waters of an onsen (hot spring).

Having said that, we still need to decide where to go.
Hakkoda is located in Aomori, requiring over three hours by Shinkansen (a high-speed train) from Tokyo, followed by an additional one-hour drive from Shin-Aomori Station. Authentic onsen inns are available in Sukayu at the trailhead, but due to their limited capacity, booking can be difficult. As a result, we often have to commute from Aomori City by car.
Despite these logistical challenges, Hakkoda continues to attract hikers with its massive snow monsters, set amidst the harsh and untouched wilderness. However, I have to be cautious when recommending Hakkoda to guests with limited time during their trip in Japan. For me, Hakkoda holds a special place for climbing and snowshoeing targets, yet the efforts and risks involved don’t always align with the probability of fully enjoying the spectacular scenery.

The same applies to Mt. Moriyoshi, which is even more difficult to access (check Google Maps). Most Japanese people are unfamiliar with its location, and accommodations in the village are scarce.
However, Moriyoshi has advantages — a ropeway provides easy access to the snow monster viewing area, allowing many visitors to enjoy the spectacle in the heart of untouched wilderness. Additionally, Moriyoshi can be combined with Mt. Hachimantai or the Mt. Akita-Koma area. If we book accommodations in Odate, we can keep both Moriyoshi and Hachimantai on our radar scope. Alternatively, staying near Lake Tazawa allows us to choose between Moriyoshi, Nyuto, and Akita-Koma. All areas are renowned for magnificent, well-formed snow monsters, so you won’t be disappointed.

To maximize the likelihood of an enjoyable experience, I would prefer accommodations near Lake Tazawa, where many authentic and quaint inns — including the popular Nyuto Onsen — are available. This combination of nature and culture ensures a uniquely immersive and out-of-the-ordinary experience for guests visiting Japan.

While the snow monsters in Aomori and Akita present challenges in the access, those in Yamagata pose a different issue — over-tourism. Due to its much easier access from Tokyo, Zao in Yamagata becomes heavily crowded in winter, as tourists flock to see the snow monsters. Zao also has a ropeway leading to the snow monsters even for non-hikers, but as you might expect, it gets extremely busy. The region boasts fantastic Onsen and high-quality inns, yet securing accommodations during winter can be difficult due to the capacity and the price-tag. Don’t get me wrong — I personally love Zao, but I’m not entirely confident that my guests would enjoy their experience there due to the mismatch between its breathtaking natural scenery and the worldly frustrations.

Mt. Nishi-Azuma is my favorite snow monster hunting location — one I once wanted to keep secret. It is not far from Zao and offers even better access from Tokyo. Nishi-Azuma also has a gondola and chairlifts access close to the snow monster viewing area. From the top of the chairlifts, you’ll find yourself surrounded by snow monsters after just 30 minutes of snowshoeing.
The allure of Nishi-Azuma lies in its so-called Little Monsters. Compared to other locations, the formations are relatively smaller and more broadly distributed. Their shapes resemble tentacles, creating a scene that feels more charming than mysterious.

For accommodations, staying in Yonezawa or Onogawa Onsen for a couple of days allows flexibility in choosing Nishi-Azuma or Zao, depending on the weather. If an extra day is available, snowshoeing to Yellow Fall on Mt. Bandai is a fantastic option — where a sulfur-rich waterfall freezes into a striking spectacle.
Kitakata City is located on the way to Mt. Bandai and is well-known as a 'Ramen City.' With around 60 ramen shops, Kitakata's signature ramen features curly noodles, a soy sauce-based broth, and tender roasted pork. If you're a ramen fan, you might want to try more than one!

Yonezawa also offers museums and sake breweries, making it hard to choose where to go, even when the weather doesn’t cooperate.

Proper winter clothing is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience. Recommended gear includes:
• Base layer: Merino wool underwear (long-sleeved top & long johns)
• Mid-layer: Fleece jacket & bottoms
• Outer layer: Hardshell jacket & pants
• Accessories: Balaclava, wool socks, wool gloves with over-gloves, and sunglasses
• Winter boots
Trekking through the snow monsters is true winter mountaineering—even for just 1–2 hours in temperatures as low as -10°C. Preparation is key to ensuring a smooth and comfortable trip. We can assist with arranging rental clothing and equipment in Japan, so planning ahead is recommended.
For the hike, we highly recommend snowshoes, though many locals prefer heel-free skis. Personally, I favor snowshoes—they are easier to handle, lighter to carry, and offer agility comparable to skis despite common assumptions. If needed, we can arrange rental snowshoes in Japan, eliminating the need to purchase or bring your own.