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A trail through emerald gorges — Hiking to Mt. Kawanori in Okutama
Following Mt. Mitake and Mt. Kumotori, I can’t help but introduce another well-trodden peak in Okutama — Mt. Kawanori. At Tokyo Hiking, we highlight lesser-traveled trails across Japan, offering international visitors a chance to experience the country’s natural beauty away from crowded tourist hotspots. However, Mt. Kawanori is an exception. While the surrounding gorges burst with lush greenery in May and June, the mountain itself remains a distinctive highlight. In fact, Okutama is at its most breathtaking during these months. As a proud local, I firmly believe this is the best time to visit — despite the influx of hikers.
Once midsummer arrives, I wouldn’t recommend Okutama — it becomes uncomfortably hot unless you’re doing Sawanobori (shower climbing), which offers a refreshing escape. Similarly, I hesitate to recommend Okutama for autumn foliage, as much of the area is covered in artificial cedar forests that don’t turn vibrant shades of red and yellow. That said, Okutama’s deep green scenery is something you absolutely must witness if you have the chance.
Mt. Kawanori is particularly distinguished by its dramatic gorges, home to verdant forests that create an unforgettable landscape. Believe it or not, the colors in these pictures haven’t been altered — the only adjustment was using Landscape mode on the Nikon Z30.
Getting to Mt. Kawanori from central Tokyo is quite straightforward. Take my lovely 'Holiday Rapid Okutama No.1' from Track No.11 of Shinjuku Station at 6:45am — it arrives in Ōme at 7:46am. From there, simply hop off and transfer to the train in front, which continues to Okutama Station, arriving at 8:24am. This connecting service is specifically designed for Tokyo hikers and is often packed with fellows and their backpacks — you’ll be part of the crowd.
Upon arrival at Okutama station, you'll have just 11 minutes before the bus to Mt. Kawanori’s trailhead departs. Many hikers, especially ladies, make a quick stop at the restroom before setting off, but be warned — the facility on the left side from the station exit is always crowded. I have to say the sharp and punctual 11-minute connection time — it’s a very Japanese approach to efficiency — but wouldn’t a 30-minute gap make everyone happier?
Finding the bus to Kawanori’s trailhead is simple — it departs from the right side of the station exit, easily identifiable by the long queue of hikers waiting to board.
Upon arrival at Okutama station, you'll have just 11 minutes before the bus to Mt. Kawanori’s trailhead departs. Many hikers, especially ladies, make a quick stop at the restroom before setting off, but be warned — the facility on the left side from the station exit is always crowded. I have to say the sharp and punctual 11-minute connection time — it’s a very Japanese approach to efficiency — but wouldn’t a 30-minute gap make everyone happier?
Finding the bus to Kawanori’s trailhead is simple — it departs from the right side of the station exit, easily identifiable by the long queue of hikers waiting to board.
Be sure to hop off the bus at Kawanori Bashi (Bridge) — many hikers do the same, so you won’t miss it. From the trailhead, you’ll follow Kawanori Rindō (forest road) for approximately one hour, descending alongside Kawanori Gorge, already deep in lush greenery. As hikers spread out at their own pace, the crowds thin, and you’ll soon find yourself immersed in the nature of Tokyo.
At Hosokura Bridge, leave the forest road and enter a mountain trail that continues along Kawanori Gorge. The initial section is well-maintained, like much of Okutama, but there are a few critical points where a slip or fall could be serious. In mountain trails—and even climbing routes—there are two types of difficulties: 'easy but critical if you slip' and 'difficult but not critical even if you slip'. Kawanori Gorge falls into the first category.
At Hosokura Bridge, leave the forest road and enter a mountain trail that continues along Kawanori Gorge. The initial section is well-maintained, like much of Okutama, but there are a few critical points where a slip or fall could be serious. In mountain trails—and even climbing routes—there are two types of difficulties: 'easy but critical if you slip' and 'difficult but not critical even if you slip'. Kawanori Gorge falls into the first category.
Another hour’s walk through lush greenery brings you to Hyakuhiro Falls, likely the largest waterfall in the Okutama area — comparable to Tatsuma Falls, hidden deep in Nippara. After this point, the trail gradually leaves the gorges and begins traversing to ridges, gaining elevation. It’s best to take a longer break here to cool down before tackling the strenuous ascent to Mt. Kawanori’s peak. As there are some dangerous sections ahead, staying focused is essential.
There are two routes to reach the summit, but I recommend taking the shorter path along Hiuchiishi Gorge. As you follow the trail, you’ll notice the river shrinking and eventually fading into the forest at its headwaters. Along the way, you’ll also come across old stone dams — the remnants of former wasabi fields. Just a few decades ago, Okutama was home to mountain communities that relied on nature for their daily lives, cultivating wasabi, foraging wild vegetables, and hunting for animal.
The peak itself is not remarkable, offering only a limited view of Nagasawa Back Ridge, deep within Okutama. Mt. Kawanori stands out not for its summit vistas, but for its breathtaking gorges — its true highlight lies in the journey, not the destination.
The peak itself is not remarkable, offering only a limited view of Nagasawa Back Ridge, deep within Okutama. Mt. Kawanori stands out not for its summit vistas, but for its breathtaking gorges — its true highlight lies in the journey, not the destination.
The descent to JR Hatonosu Station is unremarkable, even boring — it takes more than three hours, and there’s little of interest along the way. Shortly after Funaido junction, the trail enters artificial cedar forests, with no viewpoints to break the monotony. Passing by Yamanokami — the mountain deity — you start to hear the hum of the railway and the occasional roar of motorbikes. Soon after, you arrive at the grounds of Kumano Shrine. The railway station is just a 10-minute walk from here.
Around the station, a few charming kitchens invite you to unwind with a cool beer or a fragrant cup of coffee. It’s always a pleasure to chat with the local elders in this oasis at the foot of the mountains, embracing the warmth of the community. No need to rush — the trains back to the bustling city center run every 30 minutes. Enjoy the rest of your day of hike.
Around the station, a few charming kitchens invite you to unwind with a cool beer or a fragrant cup of coffee. It’s always a pleasure to chat with the local elders in this oasis at the foot of the mountains, embracing the warmth of the community. No need to rush — the trains back to the bustling city center run every 30 minutes. Enjoy the rest of your day of hike.
