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Tokyo’s Emerald — Hiking to Mt. Kumotori in Okutama
Sakura, or cherry blossom season, attracts tourists from all over the world. However, the following lush greenery season remains relatively unknown, except to local hikers in Japan. Personally, I believe it is the most beautiful time in the Japanese mountains — though I might say otherwise when another season arrives⛄
The vibrant greenery consists primarily of deciduous trees in the Tokyo region, including oak, birch, beech, larch, and maple. During this season, the landscape is bathed in a rich emerald hue, creating a refreshing sight.
Mt. Kumotori, the highest peak in Tokyo, is featured in the book of 100 Famous Mountains of Japan and not a trail "less-traveled" at all. Hikers from all over the country come to climb it as part of their quest to visit these renowned peaks, along with local hikers from the world's largest metropolis. Naturally, the trails and surrounding facilities become heavily crowded from early summer — when fresh greenery flourishes — through autumn, when the leaves turn red. Therefore, if you want to experience the beauty of Mt. Kumotori at its best, it’s important to be creative in avoiding the crowds. Here are my suggestions:
- Go on weekdays🥷
- Hike when it rains☔
- Take public transportation🚌
Mt. Kumotori stands at 2,017 meters above sea level, and a round-trip hike from the Kamosawa trailhead takes more than 10 hours. While a one-day hike is possible in summer when daylight is long, a two-day trek is highly recommended.
Important Reminder: You must start hiking before noon, regardless of which route you take. It is also essential to reach your designated mountain hut safely before 4:00pm. After sunset, risks increase dramatically — losing your way or falling from the trail can quickly turn into a dangerous situation.
Important Reminder: You must start hiking before noon, regardless of which route you take. It is also essential to reach your designated mountain hut safely before 4:00pm. After sunset, risks increase dramatically — losing your way or falling from the trail can quickly turn into a dangerous situation.
Access to Mt. Kumotori is quite convenient. If you take the Chuo Line from Tokyo or Shinjuku, you can reach Okutama Station within two hours. As a gateway to many nearby mountains, Okutama Station tends to be heavily crowded, especially on weekends.
There are frequent bus services from Okutama Station, and the Kamosawa trailhead is along the route to Tabayama or Kamosawa-Nishi. Buses run every 30 minutes during the day and once an hour after 3:00 p.m.
There are frequent bus services from Okutama Station, and the Kamosawa trailhead is along the route to Tabayama or Kamosawa-Nishi. Buses run every 30 minutes during the day and once an hour after 3:00 p.m.
There are three mountain huts near the summit, two of which provide meal service, and one even offers an onsen (hot spring). However, these huts are always fully booked, so reservations must be made well in advance — or you can follow my earlier tips to avoid the crowds.
If booking a hut isn’t an option, another great alternative is camping. A brand-new campground near the peak of Mt. Kumotori offers a clean, well-maintained space for those who prefer a night under the stars. Actually, I’m my own best friend when it comes to camping solo. It's far more refreshing than staying in a hut and feels just like being in a secret hideout.
Of course, camping is difficult to recommend in heavy rain or typhoon conditions. But if you're up for a bit of adventure, I’d choose camping any day🏕️🦉🕷️
If booking a hut isn’t an option, another great alternative is camping. A brand-new campground near the peak of Mt. Kumotori offers a clean, well-maintained space for those who prefer a night under the stars. Actually, I’m my own best friend when it comes to camping solo. It's far more refreshing than staying in a hut and feels just like being in a secret hideout.
Of course, camping is difficult to recommend in heavy rain or typhoon conditions. But if you're up for a bit of adventure, I’d choose camping any day🏕️🦉🕷️
After a 10-hour hike, you deserve a reward. Fortunately, Mt. Kumotori offers a spectacular view of Mt. Fuji, a mountain deeply loved and revered by the Japanese people.
I have a secret to share — I have never climbed to the summit of Mt. Fuji. I’ve only reached the 7th or 8th station for rescue training, but I’ve never stood at the very top. For me, and for majority of my friends, Mt. Fuji is not a mountain to climb; The mountain is best enjoyed from afar rather than joining the long queues at every corner during the trip to it.
But after such a strenuous hike, you also need a secular reward😏 Luckily, there’s a small but charming kitchen in front of the Kamosawa bus stop, offering a cozy spot for a post-hike meal. Around Okutama Station, you’ll also find plenty of pubs — even a microbrewery — so finding a welcoming place to cool down won’t be a challenge🍺
I have a secret to share — I have never climbed to the summit of Mt. Fuji. I’ve only reached the 7th or 8th station for rescue training, but I’ve never stood at the very top. For me, and for majority of my friends, Mt. Fuji is not a mountain to climb; The mountain is best enjoyed from afar rather than joining the long queues at every corner during the trip to it.
But after such a strenuous hike, you also need a secular reward😏 Luckily, there’s a small but charming kitchen in front of the Kamosawa bus stop, offering a cozy spot for a post-hike meal. Around Okutama Station, you’ll also find plenty of pubs — even a microbrewery — so finding a welcoming place to cool down won’t be a challenge🍺
