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Zao in Summer — Hiking to Tohoku Flower Trails
In June, we can hardly sit still, thinking about the blooming wildflowers in the Tohoku region.
Early summer is wildflower season across much of Japan, but the one in Tohoku is something truly special. Although June typically marks the start of Japan’s rainy season, Tohoku often sits just beyond its reach, as the seasonal rain front tends to hover along the Pacific coast.
Several mountains in Tohoku are renowned for their wildflowers — Mt. Moriyoshi, Mt. Yakeishi, Mt. Chokai, and Mt. Iide among them — and Mt. Zao is one of those standouts. Actually 'Mt. Zao' refers to the entire range rather than a single peak. The range includes Mt. Jizo in the north, followed by Mt. Kumano, Mt. Katta, Mt. Byobu, and Mt. Fubo on the southern end.
Mt. Fubo, in particular, is beloved by hikers from across Japan and beyond for its thriving community of Hakusan-Ichige, a graceful white-petaled Anemone. To stand amid these rare wildflowers is to feel the fleeting northern summer rushing in — an experience that stays with you.
Zao spans two main areas: Miyagi Zao on the eastern side and Yamagata Zao on the western side. Among international tourists, Yamagata Zao is more widely known and tends to be crowded in winter due to its famous 'snow monsters'. However, both areas belong to the same mountain range, with no major differences in landscape, onsen quality, or trail accessibility.
Personally, I would rather recommend Miyagi Zao more for my friends. It offers easier access from Tokyo and more availability in terms of accommodation, making it an ideal choice — especially as it remains relatively undiscovered by international travelers.
It’s highly recommended to travel by car from either Sendai Station or Shiroishi-Zao Station to the trailhead at Kattadake Rest House. While public transportation technically exists, it tends to be inconvenient in Tohoku — just like in many other rural parts of Japan.
Personally, I would rather recommend Miyagi Zao more for my friends. It offers easier access from Tokyo and more availability in terms of accommodation, making it an ideal choice — especially as it remains relatively undiscovered by international travelers.
It’s highly recommended to travel by car from either Sendai Station or Shiroishi-Zao Station to the trailhead at Kattadake Rest House. While public transportation technically exists, it tends to be inconvenient in Tohoku — just like in many other rural parts of Japan.
Alongside the Hakusan-Ichige, it is the Chingluma (Geum pentapetalum) that adorns Mt. Fubo in early summer. Like Ichige, it bears delicate white petals, but its yellow center and smaller leaves make it easy to distinguish. The interplay of these two alpine flowers is a fleeting spectacle of Tohoku’s early summer — an ephemeral burst of life, like fireworks, visible only for a brief moment in June.
Shirane-Aoi (Glaucidium Palmatum) and Fuderindō (Gentiana Zollingeri) are vibrant purple flowers. The former, a relative of Hydrastis, is often found along moist mountain streams, while the latter, a member of the gentian family, prefers the drier ridgelines. Though entirely different in kind, they bloom in unison during the same season — bursting forth in vivid color and drawing countless insects, a quiet marvel of nature’s synchronicity.
Yukiwarikozakura, a member of the Primula family, has a modest charm with its unassuming appearance. Iwakagami, a species in the Asterid clade, is commonly found along trails in northern Japan and in the higher mountains of the central region. While they may not possess the rarity of the Ichige or Chinguruma, their vivid hues and prolonged blooming season grant them a starring role among the alpine flora — the quintessential supporting cast on the mountainous stage.
What I really love about hiking in Tohoku is, of course, Onsen. No matter where you go, there always seems to be one nearby. Most are quaint, quiet, and tucked away from the usual tourist routes.
Togatta is a relatively lively Onsen town, yet it still offers a relaxing stay with rustic charm.
Togatta is a relatively lively Onsen town, yet it still offers a relaxing stay with rustic charm.
It’s not uncommon to come across local festivals in Tohoku during the summer. The most are small-scale folk celebrations organized by local communities. These festivals offer a perfect opportunity to savor truly local Japanese dishes — not the typical tourist fare like Sushi or Tempura, but the everyday foods enjoyed by locals. Sharing these meals is more than just eating, it’s a way to connect with the community and experience the fleeting charm of Tohoku’s short summer.
